Camellia Culture

Camellias are shade plants, with the exception of Sasanquas that can tolerate slightly more sun than other species. and are also known as "sun camellias". 

They thrive in containers in spotted shade under overhead trees or in the ground with the crown above the ground level. if they are in an area where they get some hours of full sun, it is preferable to be morning sun. Afternoon Sun should be limited to late afternoon. Indirect light is sufficient for most camellias. If the plant is very green and healthy but does not bloom well, it might be the light is lacking intensity. Adjust the plants location to accommodate. An acceptable solution to natural shade is artificial made with lathe or shade cloth.

Camellias need to be moist but not soggy. The soil mix needs to be extremely loose to provide good drainage and the high oxygen requirements of the root system. A mixture of sandy loam, fir bark and coarse peat moss for acidity would be a fine mix. It should be approximately 6.5 PH.

To plant in the ground, dig the hole twice as wide and one and a half times as deep as the root ball. rest the root ball on a firmly packed cone of soil so that the root ball is slightly above finish the soil level. Fill in and around with soil mix. 

For container culture, resize up into the next larger size container only when the root ball shows extensive rooting. Do not move up to a container too large or over watering is certain to become a problem. 

Camellias are subject to phytophthora (root rot). a fatal condition that develops from too heavy a soil mix and or to much water. 

Camellias need to be Moist not Wet at all times. Watering should be thorough and as infrequent as possible, weather allowing. Wind is particularly injurious in that it rapidly draws moisture from the leaves and produces a dehydrated root ball. Be attentive to plants under eaves that may not be watered by the rain or those recently planted in the ground. Until roots have broken into the surrounding soil, the plant is, for all practical purposes, still in a container and should be treated as such. Frost will also strip moisture from your plants so be watchful during dry winter months.

Once buds are set, care care must be taken to make sure the root ball doesn't go dry. 

Avoid wetting foliage that is in warm sunlight during the summer months. Brown circles on the leaves are through the water droplets. If the day has been above 85 degrees, camellias benefit from a misting on the foliage, towards the end of the day.

It is especially important to know the root and growth cycle of the camellia when fertilizing. They are comparatively light feeders and surface rooting. This characteristic is another that is responsible for many failed plants. Like all plants, camellias should not be fertilized when they are thirsty. Water the day before you add the fertilizer.

Camellias have a dormant season. Around September 1st until the end of their blooming season. and when their growth season begins, around April 1st. Dormant camellias are unable to tolerate growth fertilizer at this time. in doing so, the plant will most likely perish. You may fertilize at this time with 0-10-10 for blooms. 0 Nitrogen. (This is also a good time to transplant).

Use fertilizer in the growth season, April 1st to Sept 1st. Camellia, azalea, and rhododendron type fertilizer, optimally about 5-7% Nitrogen or cotton seed meal works well. 

Do not use ordinary garden fertilizer or over fertilize. 

Do not fertilize an anemic plant. If the leaves are yellow from lack of iron, restore the color with chelated iron feedings before using regular camellia fertilizer. 

Do not fertilize during a heat wave. Camellias have tender roots, and the combination of fertilizer and heat is a dangerous situation for the plants life.

Thoroughly water in all fertilizers. 

Most older camellias that have not been tended need extensive pruning. Remove cross branches and weak, twiggy growth.  Also selectively remove enough growth so that light penetrates into the interior of the plant. If shortening a branch, cut just beyond a growth bud pointed in the direction you would like it to grow. Competitive growers use the "prune so that a bird may fly through", this allows more room for the flowers can bloom un inhibited and without damage. 

Most major growers prune at the end of the bloom season but pruning can be done any time, as needed. Some growers do their heavy pruning in the fall when it also serves to disbud.

Some varieties of camellias set buds too heavily and need disbudding to produce good quality blooms. when buds have developed so that it is obvious which are bloom buds, remove all but one at each terminal. if buds have also set along the branch, remove so that there are two to three leaves in between each remaining bud.

If the variety is a miniature ( under two and a half inches), remove only enough buds to allow the remaining buds to open.

Sasanquas are valued for their mass of bloom and are not disbudded.